The Old Oregon Trail

The Columbia River at Hood River Oregon.

The Columbia Gorge, between Oregon and Washington, may not look it, but it was once the site of a very well used trail.  During the westward migration of the United States, both the River Bank and the River were used as the last leg of the 2,000 mile journey.

both the river and the bank were treacherous.  The river had many rapids that upset rafts made from settlers' wagons.  more than one family disappeared during this part of the journey.    The water route provided a much quicker journey, providing everything went well, but they often didn't.  Those who chose the land route, faced the toughest part of the journey.  They were already tired from nearly six months of travel and their stock was in no better condition.

Sheer rock walls in the Gorge

 As you can see from the terrain, it was tough going.  Of course, the water level was lower than you see in this picture, but that made it rough going on the huge boulders that lined the river.  Wheels were made of wood with an iron rim, they were not meant to be used in country filled with huge boulders.

Native American Fishing along the River

Several bands of Indians lived in the area.  many tribes found it useful to live near the abundant salmon and other foods found along the river.  Accounts from the journals of my family indicate that Indians were very helpful in getting settlers downstream to the regions of the Willamette Valley.  As a matter of recorded fact, since the first encounter, the Powell family had good relations with the Indians.  Many traveled with the wagons across the plains, helping when necessary.

East side of Bonneville Dam

Settlers who chose to travel by river, entered at The Dalles, floating on west to Portland.  Two dams now stand in the way of a simple migration, Bonneville and The Dalles Dam.  Each create a pool extending the foot of the next upstream dam, which would have made 1851 travel a lot easier than it was back then.

"Columbia Gorge" Sternwheeler: a modern day alternative to a wagon with logs chained to the sides to form a raft.

Everything changes, and shortly after the mass migration to the West, this type of vessel replaced wooden canoes and other floating craft when someone needed to get from one place to another.  The sternwheeler and also sidewheelers, both known as paddlewheelers plied the Columbia, the Willamette and the Snake Rivers for a time before giving way to railroads as more reliable and faster transportation.


The Columbia River Scenic Highway replaced some of the water transportation until the lock system was installed to raise and lower barges filled with commodities heading for the Port of Portland

This highway snaked around the hills and is still in use though Interstate I-84 is the preferred by motorists in a hurry.  The crown jewel of this old highway is found at Vista Point.  From here the traveler can see in both directions for many miles. 

Vista House

Vista House is a restful place to stop--though parking may be a problem.  This stop and Multnomah Falls, just a few miles down the road to the east are the two most popular stops along this highway.  Along the route, there are a number of spectacular waterfalls, many with in sight of the highway. 

Mt. Hood with forest fire at the lower right

Mt. Hood is what forced the settlers to use the river route to the Willamette Valley.  Later, a toll road, the Barlow Road, was built over the south flank of the mountain, but that  road was almost as treacherous as the river. 

Rogue River Trail

Left click on any photo to enlarge

There are miles and miles of the Rogue River Trail, after all, the river begins in the high Cascade Mountains and ends on the beach in Gold Beach, Oregon, where it dumps into the Pacific Ocean.  The lower portion of the river is the more famous, made so by Zane Grey, who fished there often.
The upper portion is also rugged and spectacularly beautiful from Boundary Springs (considered the headwaters of the north fork) down to the unincorporated town of Prospect.
Today, we're going to cover a more serene section around Lost Creek Lake, an 11-mile section just below the city of Prospect.  We'll circle the lake, crossing the dam, rest occasionally and take a side trip or two.  If you plan the trip just right, you can end up at the resort at dinner time, a nice ending to a great day hiking.
Let's begin at the resort and Marina off highway 62 about 40 miles from Medford, Oregon.  The resort is easy to find by the roadway signs.
A large parking area is near the resort.  If you've forgotten to bring anything, the bait shop is well stocked.  remember to take drinking water.
Near the parking area, take the trail by the resort and continue east toward Stewart State Park--incidentally a good place to camp for the evening in one of 150-some sites.  the park is just a couple miles from the resort on an easy trail that is mostly paved.  From the campground, continue east where you will come out at Peyton Bridge.

Peyton Bridge near the upper end of Lost Creek Lake

As you come off the trail near the Bridge, the only way across, other than swimming, is by crossing the bridge. 
Peyton Bridge often gets mention on the news, because there is always someone who believes they can jump from it and survive.  During some of the low-water months, that's a 125-foot plunge, and while no one ever hears of the survivors, you hear plenty of those who don't.
Just beyond the bridge, Lewis Road turns off to the left, in a westerly direction.  Not too far along Lewis Road, you'll find the trail again, only this time, the pathway is gravel.

Fire Glen Camp dates from the days of a forest fire.

Along the trail wildflowers abound

There are enough signs along the way that a person won't get lost, and the reservoir will always be off your left shoulder.

By now, the legs should be getting pretty well warmed up.  Good thing, because we're going to take a side trip that will require a little stretching and perhaps a little extra shot of water.  Grotto Falls  is off to the right, up a steeper trail, but not far from the main trail.  This falls is only there during the spring and winter months.  So plan on being here just as the rainy season breaks for summer.

Grotto Falls when it isn't

As you can see, the falls runs over solid rock, so when the weather dries, so too, does the falls.

One of the smaller arms of the reservoir

Along the trail, you'll see many fishermen, mostly in boats, trolling for Trout of Bass.  Lost Creek Reservoir is often the site of Bass tournaments, and during that time, the lake is crowded with boats zipping all over the surface of the water.
As you progress around the lake, you encounter a couple of small parks where boaters can launch their craft and soon you gain sight of the huge intake tower near the dam.  fishermen often line the walkway out to the tower and you often hear the words "fish on."
Crossing the dam, continue on around the lake by taking another left and soon you're on the trail back to the Marina.

Oregon Grape in Bloom

If you haven't stopped too long in any one place, you'll be back to the marina in time for dinner.  Hope you've enjoyed the hike, and thanks for letting me do the driving.

Lost Creek Lake

Oregon Caves National Monument

Although underground,this trail is a beauty.  The Oregon Caves were discovered in 1874 by Elijah Davidson while hunting for bear.  Davidson's dog followed a bear into a cave and when the dog didn't come out, Davidson decided to follow to see what happened.  As he ventured further into the cave, it became darker.  So he lit a match, then another and another, until his supply ran out.


Now in the dark and not knowing which way to go, he sat down to try to figure out which way to go.  In a short time, he felt the wind blowing against his cheek and he heard  the sound of the water flowing through the cave.  he followed the stream and came to the opening where his trusted dog was waiting for him.

Near entrance to cave

Shortly after the discovery, the cave became an attraction and at the urging of Jaoquin Miller and others, President Taft declared the caves a National Monument.  Originally the park was managed by the Forest Service, but was later transferred to the National Park Service.

Within the marble caves

Tours of the cave last about 90-minutes, taking visitors through some narrow and sometimes low overhanging cave ceilings, covering some 526 stairs before emerging to sunlight above the cave entrance.

Stalagmites and stalactites deep in the cave

Temperatures inside the cave are cool, a constant 44 degrees farenheit all year long.  So if taking one of the ranger-led hikes, it would be wise to wear an outer garment to stay warm.

Cave exit

Besides the trail through the cave, there are others in the surrounding are, including one to the largest Douglas Fir Tree in Oregon.  That tree is 13-feet in diameter at the butt, enough wood to build several houses.
Four other trails take hikers through the surrounding forest to various points of interest.

Chateau at the Caves

The Chataeu, where visitors can find food and lodging is built just below the entrance to the cave and just a short distance away. 
The Chateau overlooks the pond near the cave entrance and a portion of the creek actually runs through the dining room, adding a pleasant ambiance  to a fine dining experience.  Another interesting feature of the Chateau is the siding, made of Cedar Bark.  This was no small task for Gust Liam, a local contractor who designed and built the six-story structure.

Inside the lobby of the impressive structure is a huge stone fireplace where guests can warm their bones after a hike through the caves.


The Chalet, another rustic building, is the beginning point of the tours and serves as residences for park guides.
The Monument is located approximately 20 miles out of Cave Junction on a very narrow and winding highway 46.  The last three or four miles are very slow going and there are many sharp turns on the way.  Cave Junction is located about 30 miles southwest of Grants Pass on Highway 199.
Thanks for joining me on this journey and for letting me do the driving.
For more adventure and trails around Oregon, go to RMK Productions.org

Silver Falls Oregon State Park

Silver Falls State Park is  one of the more picturesque parks in a state blessed with many.  The attraction is the waterfalls--several of them, as a matter of fact.  Some are short, some are tall, all are spectacular.

South Falls

The Silver Falls area was heavily logged in the early days of Oregon history. By 1900 a Silverton photographer, June D. Drake, began to campaign for park status, using his photographs of the falls to gain support.  The National Park service rejected the idea because of the high number of stumps, which they felt were unsightly.  Another attempt to make Silver Falls a national park died in congress in 2008.

Many trails meander throughout the park, generally following the streams.  There are actually two forks of Silver Creek, the north and the south.  There is a trail head at each and they follow the stream through the canyon, passing 10 waterfalls along the 7 mile trail.

Trail under North Falls

one of the unique features along the Trail of 10 Waterfalls is that you get to walk under the ledge with the creek flowing right over you and falling to the creekbed below.  Two of the those falls, North and South, are right near the trail heads so you can experience one of the outstanding features of this park.  The picture above was taken from under the north falls, where the ledge overhangs the creek by some 75 feet.  notice the ferns growing upside down from the rock ledge.

Upper North Falls

Just a short distance from the parking area at North Falls is the trail to Upper North Falls.  While this falls is shorter than some at 65 feet, it is one of the more beautiful. 
While the main trail takes you by 10 falls (some are a short distance off this trail) there are another five falls within the park.  The tallest of these is Elbow falls at just 20 feet.  All of these five are located below the confluence of the north and south forks of Silver Creek..

After your walk along the Falls Trail, return to the South Falls parking area for a history lesson.

Silver Falls Lodge

The Silver Falls Lodge is one of the remaining buildings built by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the 1930s.  Oregon has many buildings remaining from that era still standing in many of the camping areas and other places featuring outdoor attractions.  My own father, fresh out of high school--and out of work, worked in one of the camps on the upper South Santiam River as a horse wrangler.  I know that sounds funny, but back in the early days of the 1930s, men moved mountains, not by truck, but literally by horse power.

Spring will find the falls roaring, but--and this is a personal preference--I prefer the fall when the leaves begin turning to gold.  It's also warmer in the fall and that makes hiking the more enjoyable.

Silver Falls is a great place to camp and hike, picnic and is very photogenic.  the park is about 20 miles east of Salem, the Capitol city of Oregon.  From Salem take Highway 22 east toward the little town of Sublimity, then take Oregon Highway 214 through the park.  That route takes you on to Silverton, so if you happen to be in that area, you're already on the right road.
That's all we have time for now, thanks for joining me and letting me do the driving.
RMK

Wolf Creek Falls

Here's a nice little hike that will get your legs limbered up for the more strenuous hikes during summer months.

One of the criteria I use to determine areas I like best is whether I would spend the time and effort to return again at a later date.  Wolf Creek Falls is one of those areas that I would definitely make a return trip. 

To reach the falls, take Ore 138 East from Roseburg, Oregon.  Just before entering the tiny city of Glide, turn right up Little River Road (county road 17) which takes you through rural Douglas County.  Eleven miles from this turnoff is a small parking area beside the road and a quaint footbridge taking you over Little River.

This is the trailhead for Wolf Creek Falls.  The trail meanders through dense forests all the while keeping Wolf Creek in sight.  At approximately 1.2 miles, you'll begin to hear the rushing waters of the lower falls and soon you'll hike up a small incline where you get a better view of the lower falls.

Creek flows are lower in summer,of course, but more spectacular in the spring due to run-off.  

From the lower falls, continue on the path and the upper falls come into view. 

This is the end of the trail, and what a beautiful ending it is.  The falls gently slide down a sheer rock wall and into a cool pool at the base.  It is shaded here, most of the day, and a good place to cool off when valley temperatures are hot.  This falls is one of the stops in my video of the Rogue-Umpqua Scenic Byway.  you can see them here
The hike is not long and the climb is gentle, making this one of those places you'll want to come back to on many occasions.  There is a small campground near the falls which can accommodate RVs .

A short distance up the same highway are several other waterfalls which we'll visit later.  Happy hiking, and thanks for letting me do the driving.

Golden and Silver Falls State Park

Here's a quick stretch of the legs, Golden and Silver Falls State Park near Coos Bay, Oregon.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_and_Silver_Falls_State_Natural_Area

While the park is off the beaten path it is relatively easy to find an the falls are gorgeous.    As you can see, the hikes are short.  Silver falls, the left hand trail is short, leading to a viewing area surrounded by dense forest of Douglas Firs, Maple and other hardwood species.  This trail is the old  Allegany to Scottsburg pack trail in use when roads were scarce in these parts.

Silver Falls is approximately 100 feet high, falling over yellow rock to the stream bed below.  Some huge boulders are at the bottom, evidence there have been some falling rocks in the past. This is about a 20 minute hike.  When you've got the pictures, return to the parking area for the next leg of the journey.

 The right hand fork from the parking area immediately crosses a narrow footbridge and follows the other fork of the creek around the mountainside.  Soon, you begin hearing the roar of the falls and just a short distance further, you'll see the falls through some of the tree branches.  Golden Falls is approximately the same height as Silver Falls, and it appears that similar amounts of water fall to yet another boulder strewn landscape.  We got our feet wet just a bit on this fork from some standing water on the trail.  But we were there in the rainy season and it rained and snowed while we hiked.  contrary to popular belief, there is a drier season along the Oregon Coast.  It just rains less during the summer months even though the coastline is shrouded in fog.

The Trail continues on until at last you break out on top the bluff about 60 minutes into your hike.  This is a great spot for photos from a slightly different perspective.
As I mentioned earlier, these are relatively easy hikes, and not too long, but the challenge is in finding the park in the first place.  From Coos Bay, take the Coos River Road East from town and follow it all the way to the tiny community of Allegany.  Don't blink at this point for two reasons.  First is you might miss this community which boasts more four-legged inhabitants than two, and the second is that there is a sharp turn in town and you could end up skewered or a tree.  Continue on through Allegany, fighting the urge to turn off the main road.  within a few miles, you come to the parking area which dead ends the road.  It's all walking from here. Golden and Silver Falls is a short diversion from your trip up or down the coast and can be a cool refuge on a warm day.  Either way, it's well worth the time and the short distance to find this treasure of the Oregon Coast.

Shore Acres State Park, Charleston Oregon

Shore Acres State Park is located near Charleston Oregon, close to Coos Bay, the largest city on the Oregon Coat.  The park was once the home of timber baron Louis Simpson, of what is now Simpson Timber Company of Shelton, Washington.
Simpson found the estate and bought it from a local landowner and built an elegant mansion on the property.  soon after building, the mansion burned to the ground and the Simpsons merely moved perhaps 200 feet into the guest house that survives.
Some of the most dramatic waves on the Oregon Coast break over the reef (Simpson's Reef) and soak unwary visitors.  A small gazebo is built on a promintory and there, in the spring, you'll find local whale watchers scouring the open seas for signs of Gray Whales migrating north.
Near the park are several observation platforms where visitors can observe Sea Lions and several other species.  The waters near the reef make for superb feeding grounds and are a good place to raise young.
The Park is located 13 miles southwest of Coos Bay on the Cape Arago Highway.  Shore Acres is open all year long during daylight hours.

Smith Rock State Park, Central Oregon

As you descend from the parking area at Smith Rock you encounter this sign, providing directions to the many hiking trails inside the park.  You can see there are many options and degrees of difficulty.  At this spot, you are near the River Trail, where Rooster Cogburn and Miss Eula waited in ambush for the notorious gang that killed the Army troops and stole Nitro and the Gatlin Gun. That trail, the Canyon Trail (1.6 mi) runs along the side of the river nearest the parking lot, the River Trail (2.5 mi) runs along the opposite side and is accessed from the footbridge once you get to river level.

Monkey Face, one of the more recognizable landmarks within the park, can be accessed from either the river Trail, or from Misery Ridge Trail.  Some of the more daring climbers attempt this climb, and it must surely be important to them to be able to boast about standing on top of this rock spire.

For those of us less addicted to thrills, its enough to ascend misery ridge, a series of switchbacks, to the top of the rocks and gaze at the splendor of both the rock formations and the relatively flat surroundings of the park. 

One of the outstanding features is called Asterisk Pass, for the balancing rock that looks like an asterisk.  Well, it does to them, but to me it looks like the profile of famous cartoon character, Snoopy.

Altogether, there are approximatley 10 miles of hiking trails in the park, more than enough for a day.  Best to plan at least a couple of days in the area, and remember to take water, because there is none to be found along the trails.  During summer months, take the sunscreen because the light here can be intense.

Access to Smith rocks is at the Small town of Terrebonne, found between Redmond on the south and Madris on the north, on Hwy 97 in Central Oregon.  The experience will not leave you unchanged

Look to rmkunlimited.com  for help in finding equipment for hiking, fishing, hunting and outdoor photography.

For more views of things wild, go to My Kind of Wild